Roof Replacement in Middlesex County, NJ

Tear-off removes the existing covering down to the bare deck. That is the only way to see the sheathing, and it is the reason a replacement over an existing layer is a compromise rather than a saving.

Sheathing gets checked across the whole roof once it is exposed. Delaminated plywood, split plank boards and areas that have been wet around a failed detail are replaced with matching-thickness material so the finished surface stays flat.

A self-adhering ice and water membrane goes at the eaves, in the valleys, and around penetrations. It bonds to the deck and seals around fastener shanks, which is what makes it useful in exactly the places that see standing water or backed-up meltwater. Synthetic underlayment covers the remaining field, giving the deck a secondary water barrier and a safer walking surface during installation.

Drip edge is installed at the eaves under the underlayment and at the rakes over it, so water leaving the roof is directed into the gutter rather than behind the fascia. Starter shingles run along the eaves and rakes with their sealant strip positioned to grip the first course, which is what resists wind uplift at the most exposed edge of the roof.

Field shingles go on in courses with the manufacturer's specified fastener count and placement — a detail that quietly determines whether the wind rating on the packaging means anything. Flashing is renewed at walls, chimneys and skylights rather than reused. Ridge caps and ridge vent finish the top of each plane.

A roof assembly needs air entering low and leaving high. Intake comes through soffit vents at the eaves; exhaust leaves through a continuous ridge vent or, on roofs without a usable ridge, through static vents placed high on the slope.

When intake is blocked — insulation pushed into the eaves during an energy upgrade is the usual cause — exhaust vents pull air from inside the house instead. That carries moisture into the attic, where it condenses on cold sheathing in winter. In summer, the same lack of airflow drives attic temperatures up and cooks the shingles from underneath.

Replacement is the practical moment to fix this: baffles at the eaves to keep the intake path open, and matched exhaust at the ridge. Mixing vent types on one attic space is generally avoided, because a powered vent and a ridge vent on the same roof can end up short-circuiting airflow rather than moving it from eave to peak.

Architectural asphalt shingles are the default for most homes in the county — dimensional, heavier than three-tab, with wind ratings that suit an inland site that still sees coastal storm systems.

Homes with low-slope sections over porches, additions or dormers need a different covering on those planes. Shingles are not rated to shed water at shallow pitches, and installing them there is a known source of persistent leaks. A self-adhered or heat-welded membrane on the low-slope section, tied correctly into the shingle field above it, is the right assembly.

Standing seam metal is a longer-life option that suits certain rooflines, particularly simple planes and low-slope-to-steep transitions. It costs more up front and is worth discussing where a homeowner intends to stay in the house long term.

Property protection goes up before anything comes off: coverings over landscaping and condenser units, plywood against vulnerable siding, and a controlled path for debris into a dumpster or trailer.

Tear-off is the loudest part of the job and generally happens first thing. On most single-family homes the tear-off and dry-in happen the same day, so the deck is never left uncovered overnight.

Cleanup runs throughout rather than only at the end, with magnet sweeps across the driveway, lawn and walkways. Loose fasteners in a lawn are the complaint homeowners raise most often about roofing work, and they are entirely preventable.

A final walkthrough covers what was found during tear-off — particularly any decking that had to be replaced — along with the ventilation changes made and the flashing details renewed.